After the bear stew and the beaver butt, Jean-Michel Leblond gives in to caviar! The “wood chef” (winner of the show of the same name) is now at the helm of the very urban kitchen of the Kabinet. The small intimate cocktail bar, next to the Datcha nightclub, has just annexed the neighboring former fur shop to become an elegant restaurant.
Posted yesterday at 11:00 a.m.
ADHOC Architectes has created an exceptional decor, with arches, velvet, a wooden ceiling, mosaics and a spectacular chandelier which was delivered from Ukraine by who knows what miracle, just before the invasion. The chef describes his new workspace as a “1970s Parisian hotel bar”. We can certainly see a host of other influences. Still, the place is chic while remaining warm and friendly.
By enlarging the tiny Kabinet, the owners had an idea in mind, explains the chef. They wanted to offer a complete experience to their clientele accustomed to having an aperitif there, but obliged to go eat elsewhere, before possibly returning at the end of the evening for a last drink or to enjoy the dance floor of the Datcha.
“We wanted to offer a light menu, to share, with lots of fish and seafood from Quebec, which does not weigh down people who want to stretch out the evening too much”, explains the one we knew at the helm of Tripes and caviar. and Swordfish summer grill.
This translates into a host of fresh and original dishes that are particularly omnivorous – ranging from carrots to beef tartare, including foie gras, the chef’s signature crudo with burnt leek, shrimp cocktail, egg-mayonnaise, etc. . Jean-Michel Leblond is particularly proud of his Hermitage salad (often called Olivier salad or Russian salad), made with smoked duck, potatoes, green peas and olives, among other things, all in mayonnaise .
But the highlight of the show is the caviar service. Fish eggs of various qualities are presented on chic tiered trays with blinis and condiments. “On the terrace, with a nice bottle of white wine or a martini, it will undoubtedly have its effect on passers-by this summer, and it’s a change from oysters. »
When it comes to wine and cocktails, you can trust the team, who know both about winemaking artisans and good mixology.
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