At La Locanda, in Nice, Paolo Bonazzoni’s “buona cucina”!

Paolo Bonazzoni – “Boni” for many close friends – opened his inn fourteen years ago. He then left the city center of Nice where he had become known for his kitchen and its tone, first rue Barla then rue Tonduti de L’Escarène. Bistronomy had not yet been born and he was a pioneer with his Italian-style tapas served in bowls. Boni bowls! Calabrian antipasti, baked Piedmontese cheese, Venetian cod in milk, Sicilian fusilli, Sardinian lamb casserole… And unbeatable value for money.

Paglierina, vitello tonato, cacio e pepe…

He then took a step back and went green in this strange neighborhood that runs along the way Pierre Mathis, between the high school of Estienne d’Orves and the law school. The seasons have passed and he has turned his perched house into a warm and illuminated restaurant. A coloring book, with terraces, gazebos and huts, a room like a theater illustrated with mosaics, paintings and collages, a glazed wine cellar with hams, sausages, iconic Vespa and macchina to shape durum wheat semolina pasta.
This friendly inn, looking a little recycled, a little guinguette, is to be discovered because it is Boni, not bobo, with its cooking with Piedmontese and Venetian roots which is its mark of truth. The slate changes according to the day and the seasons, it speaks clearly and greedy, invites the Lombard cold cuts from Rovagnati, in the province of Monza, the small octopus in a casserole or a delicious paglierina, tomme of cow from Piedmont with honey and chips of pistachio, formerly preserved in the wheat straw which was imprinted on the crust.

Live table and collector’s tiramisu

It’s a lively table where you’ll love the perfect risotto with squid ink, squid and fava beans, like the crunchy and tender pork ribs cooked at low temperature, the artisan spirit, the recipes drawn from the great regions from Italy, vitello tonnato from Piedmont, cacio and pepe from Rome with tonnarelli pasta, pecorino and black pepper or gnocchi and vitelottes with arrabiata, prawns and stracciatella (fresh cow cheese from Puglia).
Finally there is the tiramisu. Audrey prepares it at the table as in certain districts of Venice, Savoy biscuits soaked in coffee, egg yolks, sugar, mascarpone and bitter cocoa but without egg white or Amaretto liqueur. Masterful.
La Locanda has its fans from all quarters, who come to share its good dishes, its colors, its good humor, washed down with a few Italian cuvées, Barbera d’Asti, Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola… It is in itself a destination, a ” off Nice “where you take your time, which is often that of friends and family meals… In short, we haven’t left the hostel!

The Locanda16, avenue Robert Schuman, in Nice.
Dish of the day 14.50 euros, lunch formula 18.90 euros, menus 27 and 35 euros, à la carte around 40-48 euros.
Closed Sunday and Monday.


Leave a Comment