Tourists are back in Paris and this is when Thierry Marx chose to open Madame Brasserie on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower. After two and a half years of work, the restaurant area of the former 58 has been transformed with attractive light woodwork and large bay windows. West side, the most sought after, a superb view of the Seine, the Trocadero and La Défense in sight. East side, quieter, a bird’s eye view of the iron structure and the bowels of the Tower.
The name Madame Brasserie and its menu announce the color: it will be less chic, and therefore less expensive, than the Jules Verne on the top floor. But if it happens, it’s just as good. 20 minutes was graciously invited to check it out by tasting some of the best dishes: subtle foie gras panna cotta to excite the taste buds, then very delicately cooked lobster accompanied by green asparagus quinoa and Espelette pepper tuile. The spelled risotto linked to Cantal and its seasonal vegetables perhaps lacked a bit of relief, as did the yellow free-range poultry and its spinach cannelloni. We preferred the snacked sea bass with artichoke pepper and sweet onions, more exciting to the bite. And we finished this sated meal with a pretty vegetable pavlova with red fruits, perhaps a little too sweet.
Formulas from 19 to 175 euros
These dishes come from the most expensive menu: 175 euros for a glass of champagne, an amuse-bouche, a starter, a first course, a second course, a dessert, three glasses of wine, a hot drink and sweets. It’s expensive, but not excessive, given the quantity of dishes offered and the quality of the products and the care taken in their preparation. There are of course more accessible formulas to enjoy the place and its view in the evening (from 70 euros), at lunch (from 36 to 69 euros), as a snack in the afternoon (the croque-monsieur at 16 euros, onion soup at 14 euros, to which you will probably have to add a drink), or even at breakfast (19 euros for a complete formula)… And children’s menus are also available (20 euros at noon, 35 euros in the evening). The reservation, recommended, entitles you to skip the line so as not to queue for the elevators (allow 8.90 euros for the ticket anyway).
There remains the atmosphere, we can hear it in the video: many people come to celebrate a birthday or an event, we understand them. The setting is sumptuous and there is space, even for groups or large families. As for the pace of service between courses, it is quite fast, which will no doubt suit tourists visiting Paris, but perhaps harm the expected languor for a romantic dinner. At the same time, isn’t that the concept of a brewery?