Old France hardly knew grilled rib steak, sirloin or tab. Diderot’s Encyclopédie calls boiled meat the pinnacle of civilized refinement, while a century later Brillat-Savarin rejects it: “Boiled meat is the flesh minus its juice. We saw “the steak appear, slyly in our kitchens” imported by the English, after 1815, reports Alexandre Dumas. It was then a symbol of the Glorious Thirties, coming under the “same blood mythology as wine” as Roland Barthes would say in 1957, three years before the government launched its famous watchword: “Follow the beef. »
Making steak available to everyone was a decoy, because the noble cuts to be grilled represent only about 30% of carcasses. Slow-cooked muscles had to be sold abroad at a loss and the cuts destined to meet demand were bought back at a higher price. Nothing has changed. Today supermarkets cultivate the anonymity of pre-cut pieces, which give the consumer the illusion of choice. Raised in stalls, stuffed with cereals, our cattle breeds are “too old, too thin, too firm”, and breeders are under the thumb of cereal farmers, believes Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, one of the great figures of the profession with Hugo Desnoyers .
For them, the solution would be to relaunch mixed breeds such as the Norman, the Salers, the Blonde des Pyrénées, which feed only in the pastures. This is also what most of the ten trusted butchers we have selected think. They are less known than Le Bourdonnec and Desnoyers, but these professionals do a remarkable job. We have classified them by district.
Boucherie Barone, a reference
Gilles Barone, who took over from his father 25 years ago, knows that Périgord lamb has “a fine and compact texture, retaining the juices when cooked. » No hesitation, here the blonde is from Aquitaine, the poultry from the Gers, the chicken from Kerguilavant (Brittany), the free-range pork from Auvergne. It also offers a fine range of tripe (liver, head, tongue or sweetbreads, etc.) which takes fans through all of Paris. Reference house.
6, rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, Paris (Ist). Such. : 01-42-61-01-77
Terroirs d’Avenir, for its hardy breeds
Since 2008, Terroir d’Avenir has renewed the gourmet offer in Paris. It is the “smart small distribution”, on a neighborhood scale, hence a very useful spin-off. Live meat from small peasant farms. There are rustic breeds such as the Gascon cow, the Basque Kriaxera duck and the Kintoa pork or even the coucou chicken from Rennes, and the Île-de-France lamb, not to mention the famous Prince de Paris ham.
6, rue du Nil, Paris (2nd arrondissement). Such. : 01-84-79-88-08. Other addresses: 2, rue Paul-Bert, Paris (11th) – 84, rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, Paris (11th).
Meat Meat, direct from breeders
Édouard and Adrien, two enthusiasts, work directly with breeders, and support virtuous agriculture remunerated at a fair price. Poultry, beef and pig – farmers – are raised in the open air, on pasture, with cereals from the farm. All preparations are homemade (carcasses, sausages, rillettes, terrines, charcuterie).
206 Street Saint-Martin, Paris (IIIrd). Such. : 01-58-45-17-49
Meat & Chef, responsible craftsman
The market favors noble pieces. However, for 30 kg of steak, it is necessary to produce 100 kg of carcass! Viande & Chef is the fruitful alliance of butcher and cook know-how for a responsible practice of the profession: work on carcasses and whole poultry. A few star products: salt-meadow lamb from Mont-Saint-Michel, cows from Aubrac and Kintoa pork from the Basque Country. Every week, workshops to learn how to work and cook meat, without waste.
38 rue de Lancry, Paris (10th). Such. : 09-73-88-08-06
Bidoche, selected pieces and adjoining restaurant
Direct purchase from French breeders, cows that live at least seven years, have several calves, calves that drink their mother’s milk… Meat – Limousine (juicy) and the rare Bazadaise (very fine grain of meat) – are matured for three weeks. For Alexandre de Toulmon, Baronet du Limousin lamb is a must. In the adjoining restaurant, you can taste the cuts chosen from the butcher’s shop (same price plus cooking package). Organic, biodynamic or natural wines to wash it all down.
7, rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud Paris (XIth) – Tel. : 09-81-12-59-81
L’Atelier de la Viande, halal and organic butcher
With his team, Ouadi receives live organic halal products (certified by the independent organization AVS): rib steak and prime rib with parsley, matured between 20 and 30 days; also, free-range veal, milk-fed lamb and poultry (Biolal). Large selection of skewers, organic merguez sausages, veal sausages. Note a seasoned veal kefta steak, ready to cook (160 g. €5.12, €32 per kg)
55, rue Claude-Decaen, Paris (12th century). Such. : 09-54-04-87-03
Billot Club, transparency and traceability
Seb, JN & Augustin are ardent defenders of good steak. They have made the choice of 100% French and favor rustic breeds raised in their natural terroirs. Their credo: transparency, traceability, eat less, but better and “make you abandon the supermarket. Their arguments: beef from Charolles, Angus, black pig from Perche, free-range veal under the mother, lamb from Fontainebleau, black hen from Gascony, poultry from Normandy.
105, avenue de Saint-Ouen, Paris (17th century). Such. : 01-46-27-56-56
Butchery of the Star, rigorous since 1850
This butchery, since 1850, is most often transmitted from boss to employee! Éric Lamotte took over from Mr. Sylla in 2007, after 16 years at his side. The clientele follows, of course, including Guy Savoy, their neighbor for 30 years. Rigorous selection of beef, veal and lamb from Limousin, as well as beef from Bavaria. Choice of cooked dishes, game in season.
27, rue des Acacias, Paris (17th century) Tel. : 01-43-80-12-63
Timothée Sautereau, for his matured meats
“What if the cows ate grass” quipped Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, star butcher in the profession, ten years ago? The following year he sponsored the installation of Timothée Sautereau on rue Ramey, who turned a neighborhood stall into a top-of-the-range butcher’s shop: lonhorn beef (British), limousine from the Saint-Maurice farm, wagyu beef (Santa Rosalia in Burgos), all matured, tender and tasty meats. Famous terrine of homemade beef confit.
25, rue Ramey, Paris (18th century). Such. : 01-42-64-78-71
Persillé, a quality butchery restaurant
In the immense SO Ouest emporium, this butchery restaurant, already experienced at 66, rue du Chevaleret (13th arrondissement) imposes quality among fast foods. 100% French meat direct from hand-picked breeders, whose animals are raised in the open air. The restaurant hides a real butcher’s shop where you can choose ribs of beef from the window, vacuum-packed pieces of meat, pâtés and sausages.
31, rue d’Alsace in Levallois-Perret Tel. : 09-81-18-34-54