By Laura B. Photos by Laura B. Posted Jun 17, 2022 11:00 AM
The French gourmet restaurant Passionné has just opened in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, a stone’s throw from the Grands Boulevards. In the kitchen, the Japanese chef Satoshi Horiuchi delivers a high-flying score.
After To, Shiro and the izakaya Ao, the restaurant group behind these establishments reveals its new boardthe Passionate gastronomic restaurant. Located rue Bergère, close to Grand Boulevardsthe Trévise theater and the Folies Bergère, this restaurantwhich has just opened, unveils a gourmet French cuisinedeveloped by the Japanese chef Satoshi Horiuchiwho delivers a score without false notes.
In an elegant setting, flowered with orchids, the chief kitchen before our eyes: he chose to prepare his dishes in a open kitchenbehind the bar.
Besides a map with fine products (such as Simmenthal beef), Satoshi Horiushi also offers carte blanche menus in which he gives free rein to his inspiration.
Our lunch started with a few appetizers, including a fabulous king crab and trout roe tartlet (which deserves a large version), a fried gnocchi topped with bottarge or a delicious carrot cake with marinated organic trout and roe trout.
This tasting blindly, guided by the chiefcontinues with an entry, the Red tuna chopped and its chickpea tuile. A fresh and tasty recipe, thanks to the herbs, green asparagus and broth that accompany this starter.
Then the Chief Satoshi Horiushi reveals its signature disha grilled octopus with mashed potatoes and dried baby spinach. The aioli / turmeric condiment sublimates everything.
Next comes a turbot steak steamed and spelled risotto. The cooking is beautiful, the pearly fish, again, sublimated by a white wine sauce.
For the meatthe chef who works a lot with beef on his menu, opted for a veal tenderloin and its juice. The highlight of this plate lies in this small quiche au gratin with foie gras. It’s exquisite and also deserves a large version for gourmets.
For the pre-dessertcomes a fresh blancmange infused with fresh almond, with elderflower and strawberry. A fruity dish that whets our appetite for the real dessert: a chocolate pie with its caramel tuile and vanilla ice cream. The pastry is so subtly baked that it evokes a chocolate fondant. A great way to end the meal.
For the moment, the establishment does not offer cocktails, having preferred to concentrate on the development of a menu of wines and champagne.
This test was carried out as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know in the comments.