We enter the restaurant-gallery “There won’t be enough for everyone”* a bit like in a mill, a lot like in a flea market, passionately like in a great escape from previous aspirations, madly with your feet in the dish of the best of French cuisine, firmly anchored in its terroirs full of authenticity… and legends
Laurence Lalanne and Sébastien Segura, authors, composers and performers of this gastro-artistic magic that whets our appetite by celebrating all our senses!
From the outside, the establishment does not look like much: pebbles thrown on the path which, after having made you pass religiously under the steel sculpture of a Black from Bigorre (rustic pork) and in the middle of various utensils, lead you to the storefront which could be that of a carpentry workshop, a haberdashery, a shoemaker’s shop of yesteryear, when these pharmacies and small trades constituted a kind of social bond in the heart of our villages. Nostalgia.
The reception… intact, as before, when it housed the office of Ets Barthélémy & Lopez… Bills have simply replaced bills!
Furniture that surfs on all eras, just to take the “Marie-Antoinette” break at or over the water, while waiting to sit down to eat
On the walls, local artists take up the challenge of free expression, free thought… and it’s not lacking in humor or talent! A place of sharing, unique, between gluttony and French spirit “à la Audiard”…
Here, the most expensive bottle of Roussillon wine, Little Siberia (Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages appellation – Hervé Bizeul in Vingrau), is “barely” sold for €1 more than its out-of-cellar sale (around €200)! As a reminder: this wine from the Domaine du Clos des Fées comes from a single parcel of old vines of Grenache Noir, pruned in a goblet on the southern slope of a hill facing east-west. The climatic conditions are extreme since the plot is crossed more than two hundred days a year by an icy wind coming from the northwest (hence the name of the cuvée).
But it’s inside that the clash of ” Pictures “ – this is an image here, of course – occurs, with a succession of dining rooms, intertwined with quiet treatments, decorated in different styles and eras, which stretch in a row over 600 m², up to the vegetable garden , where you can also sit down… A crazy charm! We are calm and well settled, in the middle of vintage furniture, mottled on all fronts, a cocoon of softness (s) sheltered from the hustle and bustle of the beaches. Everything here, down to the smallest detail, arouses a certain curiosity, provokes wonder, between the walls, from the floors to the ceilings. A soul between two worlds twirls in the atmosphere to outline an absolutely singular genre obeying nothing. Art does not exist apart from what it means. The journey through time and on the plate can begin.
Laurence Lalanne51, is from the Bassin d’Arcachon. Sebastien Segura, 46, is a native of Gard. By the greatest chance of life, they met seven years ago. It was during a party for a birthday, at the cultural center of Collioure. Both have different career paths.
For rent in the center of the village of Saint-Génis-des-Fontaines, in an apartment located above a warehouse which for decades housed the company’s head office Barthelemy & Lopezwhich was the leading international fruit and vegetable import-export company in the department, Laurence and Sébastien walked past this large 600m² closed space every day.
And then, finally, one day, insistently after a successful visit, they asked the owner of the walls to rent them the place to set up their project. Bank!
With a budget of barely 20,000 €uros – including the purchase of equipment, labor, adaptation of the site to current standards… in short, all inclusive -, spread over 9 months of work, they made from this abandoned warehouse the restaurant-gallery of their dreams, installing the kitchen in the former cold room, creating a vegetable garden on the quay which was once used to load or unload fruit and vegetables… Various objects and materials were recovered, transformed, sometimes for an astonishing second life: like these honey buckets resuscitated into lampshades, like these beehives that have become armchairs, etc.-etc.
There’s even a wall of vinyl records taped to the dining room wall that leads to the vegetable garden…
The former Ets Barthélémy & Lopez fruit and vegetable boarding quay has been replaced by a vegetable garden which partly supplies the restaurant’s recipes, as well as a sunny terrace to listen to nature grow!
Wood, noble materials, in terms of decoration, a permanent game of hide and seek between yesterday and today, stimulates memories, comparisons: ” It’s made for ! »sums up Laurence perfectly. Back to the future from our most intimate memories. And if that weren’t enough, there is a wall of rare vinyl records, always to awaken, refresh, the memory, the senses. “It’s a place of life, quite simply”.
We never tire of (to) follow them in this extraordinary labyrinth, where each detour is a tangle of works, symbols, ideas, between museum and funfair. There is even a corner “ZIP” (for Zen Important People); three small tables for two people.
In total, “There won’t be enough for everyone” develops 80 seats. But the Head Chef, Laurence, working alone in front of the stoves, limits the reception to twenty-five people. And when it’s gone, daily specials, fresh produce, there’s more! Hence the name of the brand. Do not insist. Come back another time instead.
The spacious kitchen… enough to make many chefs green with envy!
Because like decoration, the kitchen has a meaning. Extra products, perfect cooking, affordable wines from small producers: the whole link of the successful sauce is there!
We are there in a House of confidence in all respects. Traditional French cuisine is in the spotlight, with specialties such as Black Pork Tartare (de Bigorre) – unique in the POs! -, or the bull rib steak, or the coast of Salers and the piece of Aubrac. Meat lovers will be satisfied, sparing. “One day, an American in a second home in the Albères said to me: Madam, you are making kidneys as my grandmother used to prepare them. Many thanks for you! ».
May the appetite be with you!
* “There won’t be enough for everyone”, atypical gallery restaurant, gourmet and exotic. Closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays: 14 avenue des écoles 66740 Saint-Génis-des-Fontaines, tel. 09 85 10 51 49 and yenaurapaspourtoutlemonde.com or [email protected]