The taste of Paris – Why you will love Colorova


LFar from the hustle and bustle of the Gare Montparnasse district and the shopping street of Rennes hides a small address well known to lovers of colorful brunches and gourmet pastries: Colorova.

The warm sign, with tables, chairs and a long wooden counter, with display cases revealing crunchy, melting and soft pastries and a culinary laboratory open to the dining room, delights customers of all ages. Created by chef Guillaume Gil ten years ago (with Charlotte Siles), the address has given itself an invigorating youthful look. The author’s pastry is always there, a nod to the prestigious Ferrandi cooking school, which is located a stone’s throw away, but the keys to the kitchen have been entrusted to Korean chef Sungjun Yeo to revisit – without denying – these plates and cakes with polished aesthetics and a permanent sense of detail.

This is how we discover an impressive “dark flan”, black sesame flan (5.50 euros a share). Impressive to the eye first of all, by the texture of the flan, firm with hold and without the slightest air bubble. On its top, lightly toasted jet-colored sesame seeds crown this majestic dessert.

Ecstasy in the mouth

In the mouth, we reach ecstasy. The firmness turns into softness and smoothness on our palate. Each bite triggers in the happy customer the memory of a happy moment, an enchanted reminiscence. The chorus of praise is near, as the expression of grilled black sesame contrasts with the delicacy of vanilla.

Among other delights, a more traditional version of tonka vanilla flan will delight purists of this ancestral dessert. The carrot cake, signature of the house, draped in a delicate whipped cream, is also worth the detour. We taste the entremets accompanied by a choice of fresh fruit juice of the day (5 euros), coffee (5.50 euros) prepared using a V60 filter (i.e. the 60 degrees of the angle of the cone the portafilter, a must in this area, it seems, to make the coffee flow and preserve all its aromas) or even one of the many natural cuvées on the menu (bubbles, white, red or orange to choose from, by the glass or by the bottle).

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After the health restrictions linked to Covid, Colorova has decided to reopen its kitchens seven days a week, offering accessible formulas for a colorful weekday lunch: currently, cod-mussels, beef cheeks or potato gnocchi in main course after buckwheat blinis or sweet potato foam as a starter (starter-dish or main-dessert formula at 24 euros, 29 for the total). And, still on weekends, a brunch as solid as it is accomplished with its farandole of seven desserts as a conclusion: tiramicoing, vanilla sky or the aptly named Paul Sesame (35 euros per person). No problem for take-out, but reservations are recommended (and imperative on weekends for brunch).

Colorova, 47 rue de l’Abbé-Grégoire, Paris (6th), Monday to Friday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m., https://www.colorova-brunch.com/


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